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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.